Blog - Love Your RV! Forum

Installing Wireless Blind Spot Radar for the RV - Haloview Sens 3

Ray
December 24, 2021

In this video, I install Haloview's new Sens 3 Wireless Blindspot Radar System onto my 30 foot Keystone Cougar fifth-wheel trailer. I show how I hook up the power to my RV 12VDC system via the rigs running light circuit.

Then, I go through the control module settings and give you a quick demo of it in action on a freeway. Stay tuned in a month or two; after some real-world use and testing, I'll be back with my product review.

Haloview Sens 3 ADAS Systems

Previous LYRV Haloview Rear View / Backup Camera Install and Review Videos

11 comment

Main Slide broken.

Greg F
December 20, 2021

Our kitchen slide stopped and made a screaming noise while we were bringing it in. Our trailer has the Lippert through frame power gear system which is very common.

Pulling back the coroplast near where the manual crank is for the slide I pretty quickly found the motor.

Upon closer inspection I could see that it was missing a bolt that attaches the motor to the gear box. The screeching noise was no doubt gears that weren't engaged.

Pulling the motor and gear box off revealed the plastic gears were actually still in good shape but the missing bolt that attaches the motor had broken off in the aluminum housing. The bolts were too small to attempt using an ez-out so I decided to drill it out slightly larger and use a tap to rethread. Fortunately I had both the tap set and a matching 12-24 bolt of the right length.

Cleaned up and fresh grease.

Everything back together.

I ordered a replacement motor which was my first choice, and use the repair for a spare but UPS seems to have lost it enroute to its amazon locker box. I will definitely pick up another complete replacement down the line if it doesn't show up tomorrow before we leave. I also ordered a steel replacement gear in case the plastic gear ever breaks. I had that issue on a previous RV with a similar slide system.

Hopefully I won't need either and this was just a fluke. Going with electric slides and jacks vs. hydraulic was a decision we made when we were looking at new trailers. All in all this was an easy fix with basic hand tools. I also have experience repairing hydraulic system and it can be a mess.

Hope everyone has a great Holliday. We will be in Palo Duro State park campground in TX from x-mas through the new year.

Greg

22 comments

Wet Bay Mod and Filter Add

Greg F
July 22, 2020

Our new 5th wheel had no water filtration system as some newer models do so I wanted to add one. I also wanted to enclose the open side of the wet bay.

Here is what they look like when they come from the manufacturer.

I found a filter on Amazon that had decent reviews. I was going to go for the Clearsource system Ray has reviewed and uses but the dimensions didn't work out for the space I had.

Filter

I used some sheet aluminum that already had a nice white finish I found on Amazon Here

Using aluminum angle from the hardware store for framing and some redwood to space the filter out to meet the water inlet on the Nautilus water system allowed a direct connection to the rv water hose inlet.

The filter elements can be swapped easily in place. Overall I am pleased with the result. I may still add a better filter under the kitchen sink for drinking but this is a big upgrade to those blue inline Camco filters we have been using for years.

319 comments

Light switch hack

Greg F
June 20, 2020

One thing we haven't liked about our new 5th wheel is the location of the main living/kitchen ceiling light switch. We don't like the location behind a cabinet door (thankfully they didn't put all the light switches back there) We also didn't like that the lights were so bright and 8 of them to boot! It was an all or nothing deal and too bright for us almost all the time when we wanted some added light in the room. As a result we just don't used them.

I installed a dimmable switch for these lights near the controls for the fans and air conditioner.
This is a pretty easy modification if you have some basic electrical skills. The switch has 3 wires that need to be tapped into the 12v + and - and a third wire ties into the single wire that heads into the ceiling for the lights themselves. The lights already have a ground wire somewhere on the chassis as typical in RV's and cars so just the single 12v power wire is all that leaves the switch to the lights.

I used heat shrink butt connectors and added enough wire to snake down behind the wall to wire in the switch. The hole in the wall was cut using an utility knife and several carefully passes to make a neat cut. The style of the switch is very similar to the factory switches and looks stock.

Here is a link to the switch. It works great with the factory LED lights. The dimming is very smooth, not flickering or weirdness at all. :)

Light Switch

:)

110 comments

Here is an easy mod/upgrade.

TerryMac
June 5, 2020

Our last big trip reminded me of a little problem we had. Well it's not really a problem but more of a irritant. When using our onboard water, every time you open a faucet etc. the water pump starts clattering away in the basement.

It was very irritating at night to try to get a drink of water as the pump is under the bedroom.

I added a pressure buffer to my water system to match what is done for home well systems. At the local big box store, masked, gloved, I bought a 2 gallon regulator tank. It contains an air bladder that is inflated to just below the pump activation pressure. (the initial setting was fine. It was factory set for 25 psi and my water pump activates at 30 psi.)

The tank will hold about a gallon of water with the bladder compressed. This water is used when a faucet etc. is opened instead of needing to run the pump. Eventually the water pressure drops and the water is used up and the the pump will activate normally. It will run after you cut the faucet off, to replenish the water in the tank.

I found a vacant spot in the basement area between the furnace and the hot water heater and under the shower. I tapped into the water distribution lines just after the city water connection. To get to that area, I removed the external shower compartment and added a "T" fitting.

PEX water lines is the only way to go! On the tank, I used a Shark Bite threaded adapter and for everything else I used PEX crimp connectors. Finding enough room to operate the crimping tool was the biggest problem with this little mod.

Note: I was also adding an exterior faucet and had to move the water pump. That is when I discovered that it had been installed incorrectly and the body of the pump was vibrating against some of the wooden framing. You really have to love those factory people!

Thanks