40A while heading down the road or while out boondocking is fantastic boost! Good video Ray!

Nice set-up! :wink:

Like that Ray. Good Job. might need to upgrade alternator next oil change.

So I am on the fence. I either want one of the Renogy 20 amp versions of what Ray installed or a Battery Doc isolater. I think I like the multi phase charging that Renogy uses how ever in reading over their manual I have noticed they do not want you to use the chassis as the ground. This will add another $20 or so onto the cost. My old motorhome is 20 years old so there isn't a lot of useful life left. I do need to do something as the engine does not charge the house battery while driving. I spent 5 months moving around AZ this past winter and loved it. I like to move around often so this will help. Any insight on this is greatly appreciated. By the way I only have 1 group 27 wet deep cycle to keep charged.

I used the truck chassis as the negative return and no issues. I think they recommended not to save them headaches with customers. Too many different vehicle designs and variables to the connection points.
Most RV 12V circuits use the chassis frame for a negative return to save money on the wire, Even the charge converter on my trailer. But the OEM is smart enough to know where to place the connection point and do a good connection. Best to pick a frame rail so there's a solid piece of steel all the way between the cables.

HI Ray
I am going to install a DC-DC charger. I was looking at the anderson connectors you used & they have fairly hefty lugs. What did you use to crimp yours? I have access to a hydraulic crimper but it might create ears (maybe lower quality dies?) The Anderson website says to crimp for best connectivity but a lot of Aussie youtubers say to flood solder. Any thoughts on soldering?

I borrowed @Eddie Aileen crimper, it did a pretty good job.
https://www.loveyourrv.com/building-custom-rv-battery-inverter-cables-tips-and-advice/
I think I remember going one step up to the 2GA die for the 4GA cable, still made a good crimp but no ears.

Thanks Ray for the instructions and review. It help me make the decision to install it.

I have completed my install of the Renogy 40amp DC to DC converter. I have added a wireless relay with remove control. That way I can turn it on or off from my pickup while driving. If I had used the running lights it would have activated every time I open my pickup door (if hooked up lights come on for about a minute after opening door). Adding the 40 amps plus 30 amps from solar I may not need to bring a generator except to run AC when boondocking.

Great idea!

Can I ask the model number and where you purchased the wireless remote you used?

Ray, are you still happy with the decision to wire the trigger to your trailers running lights? Would you change anything about your install now that some time has passed since the initial install?

No issues, everything works well. I never tow without my lights on so it was a good choice for me, but I have heard from others that have different makes and models of trucks where the lights come on just opening the door and stuff so wasn't good for them. My truck is very basic so doesn't have a lot of those fancy features. I turn the lights off and the marker lights stay off. :)
I would have loved to go with heavier gauge cable but at some point, the cost is a consideration and my 4GA does the job for my setup.

I searched on Google for wireless 12 volt relay. There are several options to choose from.