• Ray
    821
    Was surprised today when our dehumidifier turned off, thought it croaked but actually it finally was able to hit the low setpoint and auto shut down for the first time in about 3 months. Guess the dry arctic air is arriving outside humidity is dropped to under 50% usually, it's between 90 -100 around here. Cold days ahead! Some prolonged hard freezes. Finally a good test for the skirting and heated water hose.

    0qqh977a5ekzothx.jpg
  • Greg F
    304
    Being that you have shore power and skirting to help keep heat contained do you run a space heater on the under the trailer?
  • Ray
    821
    I haven't had to for most of the winter so far as it's been milder than usual with not many freezing temps, but will for this cold snap. I have a 600-watt heater I'll put under plus run our RV propane furnace. The heated water hose adds a little bit of heat under the skirt as well. We only have a 30 amp service so have to watch how much electricity we use to keep from blowing the breaker.
  • Greg F
    304
    Gotcha. Sometimes on those RV power pedestals there are multiple outlets each with their own rating. If there was a separate 15 amp breaker you could run a couple 600 or a single 1500 watt space heater under the rig. With only 30 total that does limit it some. I know some parks also frown on unmetered tenants using the electric for heat.

    Quite the departure from winter in Arizona I guess. :smile:
  • Ray
    821
    Unfortunately we just have the single 30 amp outlet so have to do a bit of a juggling act. Got a 700W oil heater and a fan heater set to 600W, the dehumidifier is around 350W and the water hose varies can get up around 300 watts when it gets very cold. At night I usually just use one heater and Anne uses a 120-watt electric blanket. I leave enough overhead for the water heater to kick in and out, its element is 1440W. So can't have all the heaters and water heater and microwave. I have amp meters so know how were are doing amp-wise before using the microwave. I usually flip the water heater off briefly. The goal is to maximize our electricity that's included in the RV site and not have to go buy propane.
    We could have got a 50 amp site here with all the outlets 50/30/20 for not much more per month but would never trade our view and spot on the estuary. :)
  • Drew
    34
    Ray,

    Boy a single 30a. at the ped. would be a challenge for me....and we're in Ca! I guess you've figured that using propane for the water heater isn't the best option for you- although for us, in the summer it can keep the voltage above 100 when the a/c's are on. Then I finally just got the Autoformer and it's helped a lot.
  • Ray
    821
    Luckily this park has strong power, even pulling the full 30 amps and with everyone else running heaters it stays around 110V. Up here in BC electric power is relatively cheap, the park doesn't even meter it per site so included in the site cost. Winter rates are pretty good about 500 USD per month including power, water, sewer, and a basic cable TV package.
  • Drew
    34
    Ray,

    That's great- I know in the Southwest hydroelectric power is cheaper too. I prefer it to gas most of the time. Thanks to Hoover Dam and all the rest on the Colorado River we enjoy the clean convenience of plentiful power wherever you live...at just a touch of a button.
  • Drew
    34
    I forgot- I also use a 50-30 dgbone in parks that have 50a. In case my ems doesn't shed in time- only the breaker(s) in the rv will open...saving me a trip to the ped.
bold
italic
underline
strike
code
quote
ulist
image
url
mention
reveal
youtube
tweet
Add a Comment