I just discovered the light in the fridge was burnt out, nothing odd about that I had thought. So I got another bulb and put it in only to discover when testing it the light would shut off. I took the switch out, tested it with my meter and it seemed to open and close the circuit ok. I then hooked it up again and thought maybe the arm on the switch wasn't closing far enough when the door closed so I modified that, it didn't work either. So out came the switch and I hooked up the power to it and discovered when powered it wouldn't shut off when pushing on the arm. Well after wasting enough time on that I ordered a new one online. I am telling you this tale as you should test your fridge light switch from time to time. I suspect my light was on for a couple of weeks.
We suspected our fridge light was staying on when I found the butter melted (it was right next to the light) so we put our GoPro in there and closed it up. Sure enough, the monitor was showing it was on. Replaced the switch arm which was apparently too short to activate it, and voila! The problem was solved!
Just as an update I replaced the switch and to my surprise it still didn't put off. This totally confused me and told me I just wasted $40. so what was the problem. It seems a black wire connection was touch the switch and when I disconnected the wire the switch work but now I have no clue as to what the black wire is for.
Found this diagram, think its the right one. Shows red wire as the power coming from the fridge controller board J2 and black going to chassis ground B. Light switch P closes and lights bulb J.
So the extra black wire you have could be from some other functions ground as it looks like they are tying a lot of the DC grounds to chassis using the color black.
Maybe its an extra wire for a feature your fridge doesn't have. I've seen that before where there are sometimes just non-connected wires floating around. Guess you find out if some function doesn't work. ;)