Our trailer has leveling jacks but for them to work the trailer needs to start reasonably level side to side. I see various products on the market to accomplish this, a couple pictured below.
I was also considering just making my own from some 2x lumber and stowing them in the bed of the truck.
What have you found that works well for a tandem axle trailer and allows decent chocking of the wheels?
Hi Greg, I have been using the Anderson leveling chocks for a few year now and being very happy with them. They lift from 1/2" and 4" and have always been enough.
I carry both the Anderson & the Lego blocks. The site I'm in now was 7.5 inches low on rear driver side. I had to use all my legos to lift. I just looked at the site I'm in in a couple weeks.It has washed out on one side. I'll be bringing some 2x6 & shovel to build it up then fine tune with the Anderson's.
I cut wood planks just long enough to hold up both my tandem axle trailer tires at the same time. On each end, I cut a 45-degree angle so the boards don’t flip up when the tire hits it. I can use one board or two depending on the rise needed.
To keep the top board from slipping, I drilled three holes through both boards and installed some three-inch lag bolts. The longboards don’t sink as easily in soft soils. If I need even more I have a pair of 2" solid rubber pads I add.
As far as having only one tire up on a board I've done it often and no harm, even done it for months at a time at our summer RV spot and no harm done as far as I can tell. Your mileage may vary though. my rig uses leaf springs and a center equalizer. Given that, I doubt having one tire up 1 1/2 inch from the other would do anything, but it helps us if the level is just in between a full board.
This was along the lines of what I was thinking about making. I have some redwood 2x8 hanging around. Maybe I will get motivated today to build some as well as some jack pads.
I have a question concerning leveling as well. On a recent trip, I used the “LEGO” blocks on the side that was low. It was lower by about three or four inches. Using the auto level would have lifted the tires off the ground completely. Hence the blocks. I then used The same number of blocks under the auto level legs(?) as they came down just to keep things equal on that whole side. Your thoughts on this please. Was the use of blocks under the legs necessary on my part?
Zenitrame I use blocks sometime under my leveling jacks if I’m on a big slope it keeps the jacks from over extending causing an error . It doesn’t hurt using blocks from time to time .
I went ahead and copied Ray since his design is a good one and I had most of the materials in the garage.
This is 2x10 redwood left over from project from when I was a carpenter. I also sprayed them with a rubberized weather proofing aerosol paint. Not sure how well it will hold up but it might help with grip and keeping the wood sealed. Like Ray I used carriage bolts to keep the two pieces together but just loose as sheer pins. I can use one ramp or both. The length allows them to sit in the bed of the truck behind the 5th wheel hitch sideways for easy access.
I also made up 4 jack leg pads and sprayed them as well.
I see you already made some, but for others who may read....We use the Anderson and have been very happy with them. Depending on the spacing between your wheels, you may have to cut one down, (as in your picture) so it will fit between the wheels.
I too use the 2x8 angle cut timbers. I also use them at times when dumping my waste. It gives me a better "Downhill " angle. Boards fit nice between my fuel/combo box and side bed wall.
Thanks for all the suggestions! At some point we may try the Andersons levelers. They look like a great solution especially when staying on improved parking pads where contact surface area and hardness aren't an issue. I saw a video on setting up with them and looks like a great way to go.
We have done the same thing in the past with our truck camper using our leveling ramps to force the waste down to the discharge tube. I am somewhat amazed at the way some of the dump stations are graded sloping away from the waste drain. :confused:
We used to do the board trick as it was cheap and easy. Here on the east coast almost every state park has dirt drive ways or if they are paved, drainage is more important than level! I use my Anderson levelers all the time. (Last winters 3 month west coast and back trip, I only need to level a few times.) Unless you have a blue tooth level like Ray, they make it real easy to level as I can see my level in the rear view mirror (Master level). I just slowly pull onto the levelers until I'm level, put the safety chocks under the levelers amd I'm good to go.
With boards and the legos, it was always trial and error. Put down the boards, drive up, check level, repeat.
With boards and the legos, it was always trial and error. Put down the boards, drive up, check level, repeat. — TerryMac
The trailer does have auto leveling but it needs to be somewhat close for it to work plus I don't want the auto level lifting wheels off the ground. I'm hoping that the boards will do the trick. So far eyeballing it has been close enough for the level system to engage. I'm still new at this so I'm sure there is plenty of learning to do. It sounds like Andersons will be my next purchase if I don't like the board method. Thanks for the reply. :)