• Greg F
    I have been rewatching all of Rays WeBoost videos
    Rays Videos

    One issue that came up on our last camper was the vertical proximity of the interior and exterior antennas. Ray, you have been installing with the 2 antennas basically on top of each other at the back of the Cougar. Have you had any issues with this? Granted the vertical distance will be more than our truck camper but I had to relocated the interior antenna forward in the camper to take the booster out of flashing red mode.

    This is the unit I will be installing. I would like to attach the antenna on the ladder and house the booster in the rear overhead cabinets pulling the antenna down and out similar to how you have done.

    weBoost Drive Reach RV
  • Ray
    When I installed, I tested all areas of the RV for the best inside antenna placement, and funny enough right at the back was the best. My theory is the metal in the window frame and the back wall aluminum frame is a better signal block between the 2 antennas than distance.
    I think these units don't work as well with most trailers versus motorhomes with more metal to them or say an Airstream.
  • Greg F
    Made some progress today on the install after getting some parts. Thanks again to Ray for his various videos on WeBoost installs. I ended up using a lot of his tricks.

    The clamps Weboost supplies with these antennas are designed for some larger poles not the ladders on our RV's. Also they use a flat plate rather than a shaped back clamp. I found these on Amazon, If you plan on getting one of these antennas I recommend them.

    For the roof penetration I used a cheap entry gland and attached it with nothing but dicor.

    Entry gland



    The supplied coaxial cable to join the exterior antenna to the booster uses the small SMA connectors and I ended up ordering a 5 foot cable from Wilson as the supplied 25 for cable was ridiculously long for my application and I didn't want to learn (and buy the right crimper) to make a smaller cable.

    Here is a link for that if 5 foot is all you need.

    shorter cable.

    You will also need a male to male connector.


    I also wanted to be able to switch the booster on and off and use the trailers 12v power supply. Fortunately the cabinet has a chase with 12v power that was easy to tap into.

    Under the overhead cabinets there was already a switch for the under cabinet lights. I replaced that with a 3 toggle switch for the 2 lights and the booster.




    Next up is tank sensors and possibly adding additional furnace ducting and register. :yikes:
    IMG_4841 2 (142K)
    IMG_4861 (177K)
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