Thanks for the reply! Yes the flame sensor is on my possible list. I haven't had a chance to work on the furnace as we are in there midst of getting our house ready to sell. I will dig a little farther into what's involved. The furnace is still on my workbench and now would be great time to replace parts.

Thanks! I will update this thread with final results

Good Idea to try jumping the sail switch. I just ordered a new one. Even if it isn't the issue it would be a good part to keep with us. Hopefully Dinosaur will also have some advice. I have been considering buying their fridge board anyway. The stock boards seem to be a common failure issue.

I did try 2 different propane sources and a different regulator so if it's a propane issue I think it is within the furnace unit.

It's always something. :grimace:

Thanks! :)

I found this on e-trailer

click here

Not sure Herb. Ours is an 8 foot bed. I don't think the hitch holds the trailer farther back from the axle than a std. hitch so my gut says that it wouldn't be any different as far as possibly hitting the cab with the nose of the trailer. There is a FB group for the Goose Box hitch and I'm sure the group there might be able to help.

Reminds me of the movie A Christmas Story

Good Morning Rush. Hope all is well.

The truck was prepped for a gooseneck ball from the factory so installing the ball is basically just dropping it into the factory hole.



This is the kit I went with made by Curt.

Curt gooseneck kit

It is and the fuel transfer box makes it blind other than the cargo camera which isn't the sharpest picture. I have some bright yellow vinyl tape on order that I will stripe the center line of the bed with to help bring it in straight and wife can guide from the side. I'm sure we will have it down quickly. On the plus side no more worry about tug testing, if jaws are locked or reaching over the dually fender to grab the handle.


As I head off this morning for a load of firewood I am happy that I don't need to pull out the Curt hitch. :)

Thanks for the tip on the grease. I see there is also a zerk fitting to lube the clamping jaw.

This is an upgrade I am considering. Nice!

We have been kicking the idea around or possibly lightweight collapsable jugs.

That's a pretty interesting idea! You would need to install the hose bib type connectors on the pex tubing to install it after the pump and put it where it is easy to read but other than that it should work. I believe on the meters I have purchased there are total and automatically resetting totals. The meter turns off after a period of non-flow and one meter resets to zero. I believe the main total meter is also resettable though which would allow you to reset that meter each time you fill and not lose the count after the "trip" meter shuts off due to lack of water flow. In any case how the meters function/reset would be something to pay attention to when you buy. Interested to see how it works out for you. :)

I ended up ordering this one. It has shocks and and air bag, so pretty similar to units like the trail air Ray uses but does not require a big hitch in the bed, just the ball reducing weight and bed space, especially when not towing, the ball just pops out. No heavy lifting

I really like the Gen Y unit I pictured above but it is not approved by the trailers frame manufacturer and I am not even a year into the three year warranty..



Resse Goose Box

Good to hear. I did look at the Lippert shock system, it mounts on the outside of the frame instead of the inside. I had heard of some issues with clearances but once mounted they are suppose to work excellent. Glad here he was able to modify it.

The next mod is a new Reese Goose Box Gooseneck to replace the stock rigid kingpin. I think with both these mods the trailer should be pretty smooth.

Thanks guys!

Install was pretty straight forward. The hardest part was mounting the upper brackets which bolt into the trailer I beam frame. The access is narrow and I ended up cutting a drill bit down and using a right angle drill adaptor.

I haven't had a chance to try them out yet but hopefully they will help mitigate the bouncy nature of their trailer when pavement isn't super smooth.

I am also considering upgrading the hitch to either a Trail Air like Ray uses or possibly going a different route and trying the Gen Y shock absorbing gooseneck hitch. If anyone has experience with these I am all ears. :) The Goose neck should make for a weight reduction and open up more space in the bed.

We have been to some of these awesome places based on your videos. Thanks!

400w/12v=33.33 amps.

That is your theoretical max amperage so yes a 20 amp charger is undersized for that array. If the 20 amp charger is designed to handle being connected to more solar wattage than the can be passed along to the batteries (some are, some aren't) than you are fine providing that you are ok with curbing some of your solar charging production in good sun/low battery conditions.

A 40 amp charger will result in more charging in some common conditions.

Every time I start one of these LYRV videos within earshot my wife passes along "Hi Ray" in the background.

Just thought I would let you know. :)

Sorry to hear you won't be making the yearly pilgrimage south into the States. Will you and Anne be traveling at all this winter or just burrowing in and hunkering down in BC?

I've used them with good results on a toilet retrofit a couple rv's ago and keep a couple fittings with me in case of emergency.

I suspect you will have no issues with your repair.