There seemed to be some relation to the swinging of the amps and voltage to the lower setting according to previous responders. I will set it to 15V which should work fine, thanks.

Something interesting happened today, my inverter tripped out under high voltage, hummmmmm why???? I had changed my bogart controller settings today so I could top balance my 3 lithium batteries. Absorption 14.6V, was 14.2 originally and left everything else the same which meant the P8 setting stayed at 20V. The BMS said the batteries were full and shut down any more current coming in but the charge controller didn't see it that way and decided to up the voltage to P8 at 20V to force more in. I shut down the controller and put the P1 back to 14.2V. I let the batteries fall to 13.6V and switched the controller back on, everything worked as normal including inverter. The next time I want to top balance I will use my small DC power supply which I have done when the batteries were at home and not in use.

I love it, good one, not too technical. :smile:

I was reading about the 2 months and won't be getting it until that is rectified or they don't bother to enforce it. I will ask again in a couple of months and see how it is going. All the best from Imperial dam LTVA

Have you done the draw for the batteries??

We were there April 18th. We have been using this place as an overnight stop to and from BC to Arizona. Thanks for letting everyone know, I should have posted it years ago, my bad.

Thanks for the photos and information, you never know.

I used two flood acid 6 volt batteries with a 2500 watt inverter and 400 watts of solar powering the complete trailer for 5 months in an Arizona winter. It all depends on what you want to run. My largest draw was making coffee in the morning (1000 watts) when the batteries were at their lowest. We could watch the 32 inch tv using our satellite receiver and my laptop every evening for several hours. If my batteries were down to 70% in the morning It was always touch and go not to have the inverter trip out on low voltage when making coffee. If I had two 100 amp lithium batteries at that time there would have been no concerns at all. It all depends on what you want to run.

If you find battery cables at a low price be sure to check they are not COPPER COATED ALUMINUM :grimace:

Great video :smile:

In my humble opinion one of the first tools to acquire for solar work is a DC clamp meter like the UNI-T
UT210E. This $50 meter (simple to use) takes all the guesswork out of what is lost from the panels to the batteries. I run 900 watts total, split into 2 fuse blocks, which feeds two trimetric controllers (slaved)
That means I have a max of 450 watts available to each controller in the Arizona sun. The total length of cable for each controller is about 30 feet and the largest gauge in the system is 8 if I remember right, no larger than 6 for sure. I took a reading of how many amps were produced directly behind each panel
and then just before the controllers. There was NO measurable loss in the 30 feet. My trimetric battery monitor confirmed my readings. I forgot to say this system is 12V (parallel) . This $50 meter and any good battery monitor will take all the guesswork out of most situations.

Interesting, I have been hesitant to increase the voltage on P8 for one main reason, lack of knowledge LOL. Actually my concern is with the inverter, which runs 24/7 to power my fridge and deep freeze. Let us say the high limit shut down for the inverter is 15.5 Volts. If P8 is set at 16-20 Volts is it possible the inverter will detect this higher voltage and shut it self down???

AH HA I have the same problem but wasn't smart enough to call Bogart. I was trying different settings but never getting the results I needed. If we ever get back to Arizona I will have to check my P1 and P8 and not be shy about asking Bogart if I need more help with the system.
There is nothing like a GOOD forum (Ray's) to help so many of us that need it.

Thanks Ray, good information.

Ray, with the voltage on P8 set at 15V is there a point on the charging cycle when the batteries might be charging at 15V even if the charged set point is 14.6V ????

I was planning to put those on when we get back to Arizona. I spoke to someone who tried everything else and was happy to say the strongarm worked the best. Looking forward to the install and the follow up review in the future

Another excellent review

I use the 5th wheel gate 12 months a year and I do miss the backup camera which is built into the OEM tailgate. I made a VERY simple mechanical lock for the 5th wheel tailgate which takes about 15 seconds to put on and off with a 9/16 wrench

It seems I always learn something from your videos, this one no exception. I never knew the negative symbol would be the visual clue as to proper polarity. When you tested the button battery I saw it and thought, I will remember this from now on. Thanks very much for your time to help us out. I think it is past time that I send you another small contribution and I will try to use the amazon link as well. :up:

I was very pleased with their warranty service also. I installed a hard wired EMS 30C in our fifth wheel and headed south for the winter:blush: Unfortunately these surge protectors don't like (won't work) being hooked to an inverter (even pure sine wave) We are in the desert and I run the trailer 24/7 off my inverter so I had to turn the EMS to bypass mode. Part way through last winter it would not allow any power to pass through and I had to remove it, they replaced it no problem but I saw no point in installing it so it sits in the basement. Knowing what I do now I should have bought the portable unit and plugged it in when needed. I tried to get progressive to ship me a portable instead and I would pay any extra cost but they said they are not in the retail side and had to send me an exact replacement, oh well!!!!