Comments

  • Main Slide broken.
    Thanks for the photos and information, you never know.
  • Solar Calculations
    I used two flood acid 6 volt batteries with a 2500 watt inverter and 400 watts of solar powering the complete trailer for 5 months in an Arizona winter. It all depends on what you want to run. My largest draw was making coffee in the morning (1000 watts) when the batteries were at their lowest. We could watch the 32 inch tv using our satellite receiver and my laptop every evening for several hours. If my batteries were down to 70% in the morning It was always touch and go not to have the inverter trip out on low voltage when making coffee. If I had two 100 amp lithium batteries at that time there would have been no concerns at all. It all depends on what you want to run.
  • Wire gauge rooftop solar to battery compartment
    If you find battery cables at a low price be sure to check they are not COPPER COATED ALUMINUM :grimace:
  • Wire gauge rooftop solar to battery compartment
    In my humble opinion one of the first tools to acquire for solar work is a DC clamp meter like the UNI-T
    UT210E. This $50 meter (simple to use) takes all the guesswork out of what is lost from the panels to the batteries. I run 900 watts total, split into 2 fuse blocks, which feeds two trimetric controllers (slaved)
    That means I have a max of 450 watts available to each controller in the Arizona sun. The total length of cable for each controller is about 30 feet and the largest gauge in the system is 8 if I remember right, no larger than 6 for sure. I took a reading of how many amps were produced directly behind each panel
    and then just before the controllers. There was NO measurable loss in the 30 feet. My trimetric battery monitor confirmed my readings. I forgot to say this system is 12V (parallel) . This $50 meter and any good battery monitor will take all the guesswork out of most situations.
  • Bogart charging LiFePo
    Interesting, I have been hesitant to increase the voltage on P8 for one main reason, lack of knowledge LOL. Actually my concern is with the inverter, which runs 24/7 to power my fridge and deep freeze. Let us say the high limit shut down for the inverter is 15.5 Volts. If P8 is set at 16-20 Volts is it possible the inverter will detect this higher voltage and shut it self down???
  • Bogart charging LiFePo
    AH HA I have the same problem but wasn't smart enough to call Bogart. I was trying different settings but never getting the results I needed. If we ever get back to Arizona I will have to check my P1 and P8 and not be shy about asking Bogart if I need more help with the system.
    There is nothing like a GOOD forum (Ray's) to help so many of us that need it.
  • Bogart charging LiFePo
    Thanks Ray, good information.
  • Bogart charging LiFePo
    Ray, with the voltage on P8 set at 15V is there a point on the charging cycle when the batteries might be charging at 15V even if the charged set point is 14.6V ????
  • JT's Strong Arm Stabilizers
    I was planning to put those on when we get back to Arizona. I spoke to someone who tried everything else and was happy to say the strongarm worked the best. Looking forward to the install and the follow up review in the future
  • SOK Lithium (LiFePO4) 12V RV Battery
    Another excellent review
  • Fifth Wheel Tailgates
    I use the 5th wheel gate 12 months a year and I do miss the backup camera which is built into the OEM tailgate. I made a VERY simple mechanical lock for the 5th wheel tailgate which takes about 15 seconds to put on and off with a 9/16 wrench
  • Basic Multimeter Testing Howto
    It seems I always learn something from your videos, this one no exception. I never knew the negative symbol would be the visual clue as to proper polarity. When you tested the button battery I saw it and thought, I will remember this from now on. Thanks very much for your time to help us out. I think it is past time that I send you another small contribution and I will try to use the amazon link as well. :up:
  • Nice Surprise
    I was very pleased with their warranty service also. I installed a hard wired EMS 30C in our fifth wheel and headed south for the winter:blush: Unfortunately these surge protectors don't like (won't work) being hooked to an inverter (even pure sine wave) We are in the desert and I run the trailer 24/7 off my inverter so I had to turn the EMS to bypass mode. Part way through last winter it would not allow any power to pass through and I had to remove it, they replaced it no problem but I saw no point in installing it so it sits in the basement. Knowing what I do now I should have bought the portable unit and plugged it in when needed. I tried to get progressive to ship me a portable instead and I would pay any extra cost but they said they are not in the retail side and had to send me an exact replacement, oh well!!!!
  • Water Heater Anode Rod Question
    I had to replace my hot water heater last year and removed the aluminum anode before I threw it out. When I drained the new water heater this spring I was shocked to see the anode worn out(magnesium) I am assuming the water at the Imperial Dam LTVA must contain minerals which just eat magnesium so the spare aluminum anode went back in.
  • Lion Energy Safari UT Lithium Battery Review
    I installed 900 watts of solar this year and had to install a second trimetric controller to handle the load. It worked as promised and will use them to control the lithiums if I can ever justify replacing my 6 crown 235APH
  • Enerdrive out of Australia
    Nice to see and hear an honest explanation of the capabilities of lithium. I liked it when he commented it was usually the operator or the system which causes failure of any type of battery. I don't let my flooded batteries drop below 70% if possible since it takes a while to charge them with solar.If I had lithium it would be the same amount of time to charge EXCEPT the 15% overcharge.When I can afford them the cost should be cheaper LOLOLOL :blush: