Comments

  • Can I tow a jeep?
    I flat tow an '04 Wrangler. I put the transmission in neutral, select neutral on the 2H, 4H, N, 4L transfer case, and then put the engine back in gear. When the transfer case is in N, the engine started, and a gear selected (I try D or R on my automatic) my Jeep will not roll when all the ducks are aligned. I have an automatic transmission but the process is the same with a standard transmission. If you do not have a transfer case then I suggest your Jeep will not flat tow. I would ask the dealer. I did go to YouTube to get the steps to tow my Wrangler.

    The thing you are looking for is to convert the toad into a trailer that will effortlessly roll.

    Also I encourage you to have a supplemental braking system. If the toad comes adrift from the MH and there is no provision for an emergency break-away brake I shudder at the totally and royally ruined day or even week I will suffer while picking up the pieces.

    I suggest that if you have to disconnect your driveshaft in order to convert to a toad that will rapidly become a HUGE inconvenience. True story: When I'm towing a toad I do not have reverse. There have been a few times where I needed the toad disconnected to get back out of the too tight confines of a gas station. There are not hours in a day to get me under the toad, hook-up the driveshaft, and move the toad, all while being in a rainstorm. I haven't tried this and I bet you will not relish the experience! My MH is a gasser. I guess if it were a diesel rig I might never find myself in a too tight situation. YMMV

    Bill, NA8M
  • Can I tow a jeep?
    Lisa:

    When you are towing a toad you do not significantly add weight to the rig's weight. I would be more worried about the cumulative weight of your RV and toad going down the road. Take a few minutes to visit a scale and then consult the information posted inside the RV. In my town the local farm elevator has a scale. I roll on the scale, one axle at a time, to get all the weights. I hear that a truck stop's C.A.T. scale will weigh each axle with just one stop on the scale.

    This doesn't tell me side to side weight, but it is a good start.

    You should pay particular attention to the GCWR.

    I found this link and it might be helpful?

    http://changingears.com/rv-sec-tow-vehicles-understand.shtml

    Bill, NA8M
  • On the Road With Lithium?
    Ray:

    Thanks for the prompt attention to my questions.

    I posed this message and its questions to Battle Born Batteries. Their quick reply echoed your thoughts. I will likely need a Battery Isolation Manager, BIM. I am struggling with exactly how the engine driven alternator is wired to the house batteries. I would need to find this circuit and "insert" either the BIM or the DC-DC converter.

    I'm glad I'm only in the planning stages. This would be worse if I had the lithium installed and Then asked this question, "How do I charge these new batteries while driving down the road?"

    Fun stuff?

    Bill, NA8M
  • Thermostat Upgrade
    I'd guess the green wire is a ground. That's why I suggested testing continuity between the negative (12 volt fuses) and the green wire. Got good conductivity or low resistance? Then it may be a ground. And you're gonna hook 'er into the "C" terminal.
  • Thermostat Upgrade
    Surely you need the ground. I think the "C" at the top of the terminal strip is the common or ground terminal. In the owner's manual the wiring diagram, "Optional Common Lead" shows a wire from the "System Common #1" and "System Common" being tied together on the left (in the diagram) to the "Chassis Ground" (that is the symbol for ground in the diagram) On the right (in the diagram) a dashed line shows a wire (probably the green one you have not connected?) optionally connected to the chassis ground. Being extra careful, I'd check continuity between the green and the negative on a twelve volt place in the fuse panel.